Some 007 posters of mine got water damaged.....will the autographs (they're in sharpie so they bleed thru paper permanently) still stick to the fibres after being cleaned/re-backed ?
In this case I *want* the sigs to stick after re-linen (not everyone's cup of tea I know.....)
IIRC they can cover the sig with something (maybe gelatin?) to protect it during cleaning. Then as they are mounting it they use a different application to remove the gelatin without damaging the sig. I would check with your restorer first, but it is fairly common I think.
Liquid frisket (or masking fluid) is also used to protect not only signatures but areas on poster borders that may contain the lithographer's info. The frisket is brushed on, allowed to thoroughly dry, and then the border can be safely airbrushed. Once that paint is dry, the frisket can be peeled away, and the information that was covered, is saved.Here are a couple products on the market:http://www.dickblick.com/products/grafix-incredible-white-mask-liquid-frisket/https://www.michaels.com/miskit-liquid-frisket/10011590.html
And make sure this stuff dries really well before you try and peal it off. If not, everything under it comes with it - I speak from experience.
And also, if you do not allow the frisket to thoroughly dry BEFORE you do additional (airbrush) work around the covered area, that paint can seep under the frisket and cover over what one hoped to protect in the first place.
Unless you airbrushed immediately after applying with really thin paint (and the latex and medium mixed) I wouldn't think this would be right. It may be the case with thicker water color papers and and watercolor work. It you are airbrushing like most of the restorers with acrylic, there should not be any seeping... It also would dry by the time you got your gun going. So unless you have frisket in one hand and the gun in the other... But yeah, let it dry...My error was I was trying to apply it and too much came off the syringe. A brush doesn't work that well for small stuff. The stuff sticks to a brush and then to the frisket already on the artwork - a mess. I ordered special syringes for lettering (but guess what the syringe will sometimes scratch what ever is underneath). I made the mistake of trying to wipe it off when it was still a bit wet. It was both wet and tacky - wet enough to soften the paper and sticky enough to hold some of the surface... A bad combination. Like I have said before, and I can't quite figure why this is hard to believe, Sharpie will never come off of a poster in normal linenbacking. In fact it took me years to finally discover how to get it off of a poster and that is often at a 50/50 success rate.
Frisket that is applied to areas of a poster must be totally dry, for sure, before other work is done over it. If not, other paint, added or sprayed on later, can potentially seep under it, interfering with the desired, masking result.
I've got this cool Thai poster of THE BEYOND in good shape except for bad water stains. Is there a previous thread about treatment of these? Can they be completely removed and at what cost? Anybody do this and possibly have a before/after pic with price it took to do it? I sent a picture to Poster Mountain today, but am curious to hear from the group. Thanks.
Agreed, great film, and the ending is superb.
Everyone dies? Wait... she survives and has a baby killer?Uhm... all die ? includind her? But she comesback to life as vegetarian and eats all the tomatoes?Uhmmm...
Rosa, I want some of whatever your smoking today.
Mike, did you ever hear back from PM about how would they handle those water stains?
I'm actually going to take this to Mario. He said he could get it into pretty good shape. He just restored my STAR TREK II Thai poster and did a fantastic job on it!
