I want to try to linen back a poster.

[raulleaf]

I have a bunch of older dupes and an independent spirit.  I know that I will need Japanese Masa Paper, Cotton Duct preferable 15oz, and wheat paste.  I am guessing the process goes:

Stretch the Cotton Duct
Paste the Masa Paper to Cotton Duct roll the air bubbles out
Paste the Poster to the Cotton Duct and Roll the air bubbles out
Let it dry and cut it down.

Now what about deacid agents and cleaning (aka Bleaching) chemicals.

Probable need a bathing trey.

I need brand names and websites to order from....help?

Also have some nice one sheets that need tape stains removed.  If I can learn to back the poster and remove stains watch out.  I don't plan on working on the expensive stuff just want to explore.

I couldn't find any books either.  If I were the accusing type I don't think backers don't want anyone to know how easy it is (minus the restoration work)...

Thanks, Charlie

[theartofmovieposters]

Dario is a pretty great guy...he might be able to help you out...PM with email address on it's way.

[ddilts399]

Didnt someone make a DVD/how to on linen backing?

[theartofmovieposters]

Shhhhhh...Don't mention the war!

[Bruce]

"If I were the accusing type I don't think backers don't want anyone to know how easy it is (minus the restoration work)."

Every restorer can do hundreds of backing jobs a week (no restoration). There is no demand for anyone else doing this.

What no restorer can do is keep up with the amount of backing jobs that include substantial restoration. Before long, they are all looking for "easy" jobs to pay their bills, and they all end up with a big stack of unfinished difficult projects.

Linenbacking is easy to do if you don't care how the finished product looks or ages over time. It is very difficult to do WELL!

Bruce

[jayn_j]

"If I were the accusing type I don't think backers don't want anyone to know how easy it is (minus the restoration work)."

Every restorer can do hundreds of backing jobs a week (no restoration). There is no demand for anyone else doing this.

What no restorer can do is keep up with the amount of backing jobs that include substantial restoration. Before long, they are all looking for "easy" jobs to pay their bills, and they all end up with a big stack of unfinished difficult projects.

Linenbacking is easy to do if you don't care how the finished product looks or ages over time. It is very difficult to do WELL!

Bruce

I don't think this is a matter of trying to compete with the existing restorers.  Any collector who has been at it for awhile has a stash of posters that are in less than ideal condition, but which simply aren't worth restoring.  MY orphan complex would like to make that "Power Dive" poster presentable, but since a good one goes for $50-60, it doesn't make economic sense.  I would be interested in a way to stabilize these sub $100 posters inexpensively, but I also realize there is a lot more to it than slapping a chunk of linen on the back of the poster.

[guest8]

 

[50s]

Linenbacking is easy to do if you don't care how the finished product looks or ages over time. It is very difficult to do WELL!

You need a fair bit of space (especially if doing the biggies) and I guess need to buy the linen in a bulk role. I actually like doing the pencil touch up restoration, as I am sure I do a much better job as I have the patience to do it accurately. Havent had any paper replaced, just the torn edges sanded smooth and colored the rice paper. I enjoy it, at least seeing it finished (well not seeing the work done is the goal)

[MoviePosterBid.com]

Every restorer can do hundreds of backing jobs a week (no restoration). There is no demand for anyone else doing this.

What no restorer can do is keep up with the amount of backing jobs that include substantial restoration. Before long, they are all looking for "easy" jobs to pay their bills, and they all end up with a big stack of unfinished difficult projects.

Bruce is so-o-o-o-o right

[raulleaf]

"If I were the accusing type I don't think backers don't want anyone to know how easy it is (minus the restoration work)."

Every restorer can do hundreds of backing jobs a week (no restoration). There is no demand for anyone else doing this.

What no restorer can do is keep up with the amount of backing jobs that include substantial restoration. Before long, they are all looking for "easy" jobs to pay their bills, and they all end up with a big stack of unfinished difficult projects.

Linenbacking is easy to do if you don't care how the finished product looks or ages over time. It is very difficult to do WELL!

Bruce

Well, Bruce I not sure I understand your comment.  I guess there seems to be a demand along the middle ground.  Those posters that aren't valuable enough to spend $85 to $100 to back without or with minor (fold) restoration.  If there was a backer that would do a quick cleaning, backing and fold touch-up for $50 (incl ship) I wouldn't be considering this attempt.  But if I can make the initial investment; hone my skills step by step I may be able to reach the point were I can do this for around $30 in materials.  Then compared to the market my $30 investment (for a 1 sheet) may increase my poster's value by $50 or more (depending on the poster)... 

My goal is not to make a living linen backing posters.  I just have a few posters with a tear here or tape stain there lying around that I don't feel like dropping a $100 bucks on to get linen backed w/minor resto and figured if I could figure out the easy part, as you say, then why worry about shipping, waiting, and paying someone else to do it.  Jayn_J really nailed my intent.

I chatted with Dario and its quite involved, but not out of my league.  I just think it would be fun to try and figure it out.  If I fail and ruin a few crappy posters trying, then I'll be calling Dario for all my restoration projects.  If I succeed, then I can linen back some of those $40 to $100 posters that I love and preserve them in a more presentable state.

I don't see myself doing any major restoration; besides I am color blind.      

All that being said, it is quite expensive to get started so this may be an August project.  I'll make sure and update the thread as I bleach and destroy my posters...

[50s]

Anyone want to do an online color blindness test?

You need to keep clicking thru until it says you can finish (about 110 tests for me) ~4 mins to do.

[jayn_j]

Anyone want to do an online color blindness test?

You need to keep clicking thru until it says you can finish (about 110 tests for me) ~4 mins to do.

Don't need to.  My Father in law is r-g color blind and so is my son (moderate).  Simple genetic trait.

[raulleaf]

Anyone want to do an online color blindness test?

You need to keep clicking thru until it says you can finish (about 110 tests for me) ~4 mins to do.

FAIL!

Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results.
Albert Einstein




Red-green color blindness terminology

There are two different axis which you have to take into account. The first axis distinguishes if you have problems with your long (L) or medium (M) wavelength cones. The L-cones are red sensitive and are—if malfunctioning—the source of red-blindness (protanopia) and red-weakness (protanomaly).

On the other side are the M-cones, which are more sensitive to green colors. If your M-cones are absent or not working properly you are either green-blind (deuteranopia) or green-weak (deuteranomaly).

The other axis tells you about the severity of your color vision deficiency. Either you are a dichromat (protanopia/deuteranopia) and therefore you have only two different types of color receptors in your eyes. Or you have three different types of color sensitive cones, like somebody with normal vision, which is called anomalous trichromacy (protanomaly/deuteranomaly).

[50s]

I think one in ten men have some degree of color blindness so it is very common... My suggestion is to use a restorer instead of adding color yourself to posters.

Hey, were you going to create frames yourself? I was thinking maybe trying for the huge posters, but seems Im going to have to learn carpentry 

[raulleaf]

I think one in ten men have some degree of color blindness so it is very common... My suggestion is to use a restorer instead of adding color yourself to posters.

Hey, were you going to create frames yourself? I was thinking maybe trying for the huge posters, but seems Im going to have to learn carpentry 

Well before I was knee deep in posters, I restored antique furniture for fun/$$ so the stretcher bars shouldn't be an issue.  If you are talking about frames for your wall yeah I can and have built them before.  I can give you some tips if you are interested...  There is a method called pocket screwing at joints that someone with little or no experience can be pretty successful at. 

Check out this tool site:  http://www.kregtool.com/Pocket-Hole-Jigs-Prodlist.html 

You could make a decent frame with the Pocket Screw system, glue, a jig saw, etc...  Just pm me and I can tell you all the secrets...

However the expensive part isn't the wooden frame, its the UV sheeting.... 

[guest8]

Well before I was knee deep in posters, I restored antique furniture for fun/$$ so the stretcher bars shouldn't be an issue.  If you are talking about frames for your wall yeah I can and have built them before.  I can give you some tips if you are interested...  There is a method called pocket screwing at joints that someone with little or no experience can be pretty successful at. 

Check out this tool site:  http://www.kregtool.com/Pocket-Hole-Jigs-Prodlist.html 

You could make a decent frame with the Pocket Screw system, glue, a jig saw, etc...  Just pm me and I can tell you all the secrets...

However the expensive part isn't the wooden frame, its the UV sheeting.... 

I was going to buy a joiner and make some frames my problem came in when I was trying to find the wooden frame pieces in bulk

[jayn_j]

You could make a decent frame with the Pocket Screw system, glue, a jig saw, etc...  Just pm me and I can tell you all the secrets...

However the expensive part isn't the wooden frame, its the UV sheeting.... 

Tell me about it.  Even the acid free backing board is more expensive than the rails.

I have gotten large frame rails in the past from Grafik Dimensions at www.pictureframes.com.  Did rails for a 3 sheet, so I know they can handle 81" rails.

[50s]

Linenbacking is easy to do if you don't care how the finished product looks or ages over time. It is very difficult to do WELL!

Bruce

What do you mean Bruce - something like discoloration / separation?

 

[Silhouette]

Cotton Duck Canvas
I note Charlie you suggest 15oz but I have also seen suggestions on the net that 12 oz is just fine. Thoughts?

I have an art supply shop just round the corner so either option is available it seems: http://www.wholesalecanvasaustralia.com.au/canvastypes.html I am assuming unprimed is acid free or am I barking up the wrong tree entirely?

If not they are probably going to be good people to chat to for some direction too.

However, rather than buy in canvas in bulk I thought I might try a single piece first, I am aware one can buy pre-stretched mounted canvas 40"x30" for next to nothing, so will try a daybill on that and see how it looks.

Glue

Any guidance/link on best type?

[holiday]

If there was a backer that would do a quick cleaning, backing and fold touch-up for $50 (incl ship) I wouldn't be considering this attempt. 

That would be Chris Cloutier, and as they say, youse gets whats you pays for.

If you're going to do it, do it right.  And, do it for the right reasons (if you're going to charge, then be perfect.  If not, then do it for the love of the process). No one needs another half-ass artist like Cloutier.

[Harry Caul]

I actually like doing the pencil touch up restoration, as I am sure I do a much better job as I have the patience to do it accurately.

Mind sharing more details?  I have some posters that do not need backing, but could use some very minor touch ups from dings.  I've heard restorers use grease pencils (also known as China pens, or wax pencils) for post-backing foldline touch-ups, but I can't seem to find them in a big enough color range.  Usually only white and black, with some places selling red, yellow, green and blue.  But I would think you would want a nice varied palatte... something like 30-40 colors or more to do a good job. 

[Silhouette]

If you're going to do it, do it right.  And, do it for the right reasons (if you're going to charge, then be perfect.  If not, then do it for the love of the process). No one needs another half-ass artist like Cloutier.

I want to give it a go because like Charlie has said before (I'll paraphrase) adding life to a cheap poster by backing it makes sense if you can do it yourself.

I would only do it if I could do a good job (hence the 'test posters'), and the other reason is DIY is something I enjoy, and of course the satisfaction of a job well done. And no...I have no time to do this for others so charging is not on the radar 

[Charlie]

I am aware one can buy pre-stretched mounted canvas 40"x30" for next to nothing
Glue

Any guidance/link on best type?

Has to be unprimed and you need a backing paper like Masa paper...

[Charlie]

Mind sharing more details?  I have some posters that do not need backing, but could use some very minor touch ups from dings.  I've heard restorers use grease pencils (also known as China pens, or wax pencils) for post-backing foldline touch-ups, but I can't seem to find them in a big enough color range.  Usually only white and black, with some places selling red, yellow, green and blue.  But I would think you would want a nice varied palatte... something like 30-40 colors or more to do a good job. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FABER-CASTELL-72-Watercolour-Pencil-Set-New-/370528991549?pt=UK_Crafts_DrawingSupplies_EH&hash=item56453fb93d

[Charlie]

Glue

Any guidance/link on best type?

Wheat paste; either uncooked or ready to mix you can also put an anti-fungal agent in there...