Author Topic: Did you know that there are some basic items that EVERY collector should have?  (Read 8507 times)

Bruce

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Did you know... that there are some basic items that EVERY collector should consider owning?

     We are often contacted by collectors with various concerns or requests that pertain to collecting movie paper such as "how can I protect the tear in my poster without restoration", "how can I safely remove this piece of tape", "how can I more easily open packages", etc. So we thought it would be helpful to make a list of some of the items we think ALL movie paper collectors should strongly consider owning:

*Conservation Tape (P90 Filmoplast tape) - This is tape that is safe for use on movie paper. You can use it on the back of items to secure tears.

*Bestine - This is a solvent that can dissolve the sticky part of tape making the tape easily removed without damage to movie paper and is therefore super useful in removing tape from older posters, and also can "save the day" if you accidentally get tape stuck to a poster when removing it from a package. NOTE: This is a highly flammable and dangerous substance and should only be used in a well ventilated area, and ONLY if you are at least somewhat "handy" and will be EXTREMELY careful using it. Be sure to read ALL of the manufacture's warnings before use.

*A utility knife, Xacto knife, or similar - This is wonderful for opening well packed packages (such as those eMoviePoster.com uses). NOTE: You should always cut with care as these knives are extremely sharp and WILL cut through several pieces of cardboard with ease, and can also cut into YOU with even greater ease. You definitely do NOT want to accidentally cut your movie paper (or yourself)!

*A map file or other storage equipment - As we all know, movie paper can be very valuable, so why not store it in a way that best protects your investment? A map file is a great way to do this if you have space because it allows you to store one-sheet-size and smaller posters unfolded and flat. Boxes or tubes are also acceptable if you don't have the space (or funds) for a large map file.
--for more information about storage, please go the following link: Did you know... that many people have different views on how to best store their movie paper collection?  at http://www.emovieposter.com/announcements.php?id=409

*A digital camera or phone with a built-in camera - This is an invaluable tool for when you want to:

    *Get advice from someone online about your poster
    *Share images of your favorite posters with the world
    *Offer items for sale

*Spreadsheet or database software - A great tool for cataloging one's collection (and there are free ones such as LibreOffice or GoogleDocs). You will have to have a little higher level of computer expertise to easily use such software (although, we hear GoogleDocs makes things fairly easy), but enlisting the help of a "computer nerd" family member can get you on the path to using this software. You may also be able to find commercial "collection" software to aid you in cataloging your collection, but we don't know of any good software that is specifically dedicated to movie paper.

NOTE: Copies of the last two items above (digital photos of your collection AND your collection list in your online software) need to be stored somewhere completely separate from your collection! Otherwise in the event of a disaster, you will not have proof of what you owned, but if you DO have both of these, you will have an excellent chance of filing (and collecting) on an insurance claim.

Bruce

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CORRECTION! Last week we reported on using "conservation tape" to mend posters, but we've found additional information!
     Last week in our "Did You Know", we reported: "Conservation Tape (P90 Filmoplast tape) - This is tape that is safe for use on movie paper. You can use it on the back of items to secure tears."

We were quickly contacted by an expert who stated, "Despite what the distributor says, Filmoplast Tape is NOT acid free, and it is NOT safe to use on old paper stock. Depending on the paper stock, if Filmoplast Tape is applied for a long time, there is a chance of discoloration and bleeding."

NOW WE KNOW OF SEVERAL DEALERS WHO HAVE USED THIS FOR YEARS WITH NO PROBLEMS, BUT WE WOULD RATHER BE "SAFE" THAN SORRY, SO PLEASE CONSIDER NOT USING P90 FILMOPLAST TAPE!

Other experts contacted us telling us what tape they use and several recommended other products, which are Lineco Document Repair Tape and Lineco Transparent Mending Tissue. Please consider using these products for the safest archival quality tape for repairing torn posters from the reverse.

Online Neo

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Thanks for the info. about the P90 Filmoplast tape, Bruce.

Offline brude

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You forgot two things, Bruce:

1.  Patience
2.  Disposable income.

 wynk

Bruce

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You forgot two things, Bruce:

1.  Patience
2.  Disposable income.

 wynk

How true!

Offline Zorba

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You forgot two things, Bruce:

1.  Patience
2.  Disposable income.

 wynk

0 for 2. oh oh...

Offline dsonesheets

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I am VERY surprised that no one has mentioned silk or cotton gloves!

I haven't touched a single poster in my collection with my bare fingers in probably around ten years.  If you buy them by the dozen they are pretty cheap (cotton ones anyway), and you can wash them with your laundry too.  The human hand touches a million things a day, and that's not including the natural oils in your skin.  Some types of paper absorbs that crap quicker than you can say "smudge."  I don't think there's any reason at all why you wouldn't want to wear gloves while handling your collection, especially some of the rarer posters I know some of you own.  Sure, my friends used to make fun of me, but now they respect me and ask for their own gloves when I buy posters for them.  It also makes you more conscious of how you treat your paper, and makes you more careful in general around them.  Kind of like dressing up for a job interview over the phone.  You just feel more conscious about your presentation.  Same for posters.  At least, it does for me!

Offline stewart boyle

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Good point dsonesheets,
Gloves are essential when handling paper,although it is probably something any newbie would not consider.
Some may see it as "over the top" but with time and knowledge what you say is very true.

Stew

Offline eatbrie

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I have used P90 for years and haven't had any issue.  Paper looks as good now as it did back then.

I don't use gloves.  I just wash my hands.  It's just paper, not relics.

T
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- "Wishing you the best of luck with All Poster Forum and in encouraging others to appreciate the magical art of film posters" - Martin Scorsese (2009)

Charlie

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I am VERY surprised that no one has mentioned silk or cotton gloves!

I haven't touched a single poster in my collection with my bare fingers in probably around ten years.  If you buy them by the dozen they are pretty cheap (cotton ones anyway), and you can wash them with your laundry too.  The human hand touches a million things a day, and that's not including the natural oils in your skin.  Some types of paper absorbs that crap quicker than you can say "smudge."  I don't think there's any reason at all why you wouldn't want to wear gloves while handling your collection, especially some of the rarer posters I know some of you own.  Sure, my friends used to make fun of me, but now they respect me and ask for their own gloves when I buy posters for them.  It also makes you more conscious of how you treat your paper, and makes you more careful in general around them.  Kind of like dressing up for a job interview over the phone.  You just feel more conscious about your presentation.  Same for posters.  At least, it does for me!

Man, don't come to my poster lair...  You would be appalled!
« Last Edit: November 18, 2012, 06:05:56 PM by Charlie »

Bruce

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When I look at my collection I go "all out" and put on my completely sealed, "Level A" full encapsulation suit. I don't want to take ANY chances.



The suit has a one way (exhaust) pressure bleed valve. This is required because as the wearer exhales, the used air must go somewhere. Even with this valve, the suits tend to blow up like balloons. When sealed up, the wearer is completely isolated from the outside atmosphere. Nothing (hopefully) can get in, and, unfortunately, almost nothing (including body heat and sweat) can get out. These suits are comprised of up to a dozen protective layers.
exposure suit   

1  Sealed hood with viewport.
2  Respirator mask and structural helmet.
3  Pressure Bleed Valve.
4  Valve.
5  Integral gloves.
6  Sealed zipper.
7  Standard Firefighting boots. The suits have integral booties which fit inside the boots. The leggings seen overlapping the boots prevent liquids from running into and pooling in the bottoms of the boots.

Normally, another pair of protective gloves would be worn on top of these, providing four layers of protection for the hands. The gloves shown here are permanently attached to the sleeves of the suit, so that, in combination with the integral booties, no taping is required to seal the wrists and ankles, which is often necessary with other suits.
« Last Edit: November 18, 2012, 06:13:11 PM by Bruce »

Charlie

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Too bad the silverfish beat you in there...   ;)

Offline Louie D.

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I am VERY surprised that no one has mentioned silk or cotton gloves!

Actually it's being found that the use of cotton gloves is not needed as long as hands are washed thoroughly before handling paper.

Offline erik1925

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I am VERY surprised that no one has mentioned silk or cotton gloves!



Silk? Sounds fancy. ;D

Even when handling brittle film, we only ever used cotton gloves.


-Jeff

Offline CSM

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You guys forgot "common sense"
Chris

Offline Ari

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By the sound of some of the above, insanity is also a must.
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Offline CSM

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By the sound of some of the above, insanity is also a must.

Yes - you have to juggle insanity/rationality with one hand behind your back in this hobby!
Chris

Poppenhousetm

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I bought a small collection of movie posters that were "professionally" (LOL) framed by Hobby Lobby. Which was great because I got some $200 frames for $15 a piece but when I took them apart I saw that the posters were taped to the back of the matting and when i asked hobby lobby about it, they said that used PH neutral artists tape...when I removed the tape it had stained the posters as well....its this tape that claims it doesn't stain: http://kozofineartmaterials.com/store/products/artists-tape/. Brings me to another question, has anyone ever used matting to frame a poster? and how did you do so?

Ty

Offline CSM

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Hi Ty,

I use matting but NO TAPE - if it is a smaller, less heavy poster the pressure from the backing should sandwich the poster between the backing and the mat = all good tapeless framing :)
« Last Edit: November 29, 2012, 12:47:49 AM by CSM »
Chris

Mirosae

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I will also add a magnifying glass and a small lantern for fault finding . I find them very useful to have at hand.


Dread_Pirate_Mel

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Well, I've put 1,000+ pieces of Scotch acid-free tape - which I've only been able to find in arts & crafts stores - on my posters:



If that's no good, then I'm in trouble.

Offline ONEYE

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You forgot a few things...

An iron to get rid of those wrinkles and folds.
Scissors to cut and straighten out those rough edges.
Thumbtacks, nails, or darts to hang up those prints.

;)

Offline 50s

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You forgot a few things...

An iron to get rid of those wrinkles and folds.
Scissors to cut and straighten out those rough edges.
Thumbtacks, nails, or darts to hang up those prints.

;)


Yes, all very good advice. Also if you know someone who got a laminating machine for Christmas, just ask if you can borrow it as laminating is excellent at preventing damage to the poster surface such as sneezing, food splatters, shower steam, even humble finger prints can be removed easily just by dipping the laminated poster in the sink and giving it a good scrub with vinegar and bi-carb mix, oh and hair dry the surface dry to get it dry quicker

 


Offline Ari

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I actually agree with the above two more than some of the previous, well not scissors.
Although I do have a big French that I'm gonna trim the top and bottom off, and glue to a large piece of wood and use as a table top, varnish over it all.

And I'm not even joking.

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