Author Topic: Some basic items that EVERY movie memorabilia collector should consider owning!  (Read 523 times)

Offline BruceH

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Did you know that there are some basic items that EVERY movie memorabilia collector should consider owning?

We are often contacted by collectors with various concerns or requests that pertain to collecting movie paper such as "how can I protect the tear in my poster without restoration", "how can I safely remove this piece of tape", "how can I more easily open packages", etc.

So we thought it would be helpful to make a list of some of the items we think ALL movie paper collectors should strongly consider owning:

*Lineco Document Repair Tape and Lineco Transparent Mending Tissue - This is tape that is safe for use on movie paper. You can use it on the back of items to secure tears.

*Bestine (or "Un-du") - This is a solvent that can dissolve the sticky part of tape making the tape easily removed without damage to movie paper and is therefore super useful in removing tape from older posters, and also can "save the day" if you accidentally get tape stuck to a poster when removing it from a package.

NOTE: This is a highly flammable and dangerous substance and should only be used in a well ventilated area, and ONLY if you are at least somewhat "handy" and will be EXTREMELY careful using it. Be sure to read ALL of the manufacture's warnings before use.

*A utility knife, Xacto knife, or similar - This is wonderful for opening well packed packages (such as those eMoviePoster.com uses). NOTE: You should always cut with care as these knives are extremely sharp and WILL cut through several pieces of cardboard with ease, and can also cut into YOU with even greater ease. You definitely do NOT want to accidentally cut your movie paper (or yourself)!

*A REALLY strong light (like 400 watts or stronger) - This is wonderful if you own or are considering buying restored items. When you hold those items up before a light source like this, you will likely be able to practically "see" right through the linen or paper backing, and you can likely see the extent of the restoration.

You will need some practice to know how to interpret what you see in some cases, but in many cases it will be very obvious (like where a large hole was recreated by being painted over). But be prepared to be shocked in some cases, because some auctions describe some items as having "minor fold and border restoration", when the actual restoration is far greater, because they are counting on the buyers not being knowledgeable to know the difference.

And also, know that if an item (usually a window card, half-sheet or insert) is backed onto a heavy board backing, you likely can't get a light bright enough to shine through it, but just the fact that this kind of restoration was performed is almost a guarantee that the restoration was extensive. And also, when acrylic paint is used, you also may have trouble seeing "through it", but again, just the fact that this kind of restoration was performed is almost a guarantee that the restoration was extensive.

And it is not that you shouldn't buy restored items, just that you should be accurately informed as to how much restoration the item has had, either by the seller, or by you, examining the item in the way described above. Once you know the truth, you can better decide how much to pay.

*A map file or other storage equipment - As we all know, movie paper can be very valuable, so why not store it in a way that best protects your investment? A map file is a great way to do this if you have space because it allows you to store one-sheet-size and smaller posters unfolded and flat. Boxes or tubes are also acceptable if you don't have the space (or funds) for a large map file.
--for more information about storage, please go the following link: "Did you know... that many people have different views on how to best store their movie paper collection?" at https://www.emovieposter.com/tips_archive.php?id=409&searchterms=best%20store

*A digital camera or phone with an excellent built-in camera - Either is an invaluable tool for when you want to get advice from someone online about your posters or share images of your favorite posters with the world OR if you want to offer items for sale

*Spreadsheet or database software - A great tool for cataloging one's collection (and there are free ones such as LibreOffice or GoogleDocs). You will have to have a little higher level of computer expertise to easily use such software (although, we hear GoogleDocs makes things fairly easy), but enlisting the help of a "computer nerd" family member can get you on the path to using this software. You may also be able to find commercial "collection" software to aid you in cataloging your collection, but we don't know of any good software that is specifically dedicated to movie paper.

NOTE: Copies of the last two items above (digital photos of your collection AND your collection list in your online software) need to be stored somewhere completely separate from your collection! Otherwise in the event of a disaster, you will not have proof of what you owned, but if you DO have both of these, you will have an excellent chance of filing (and collecting) on an insurance claim.

THIS HAS BEEN A PUBLIC SERVICE ANNOUNCEMENT FROM EMOVIEPOSTER.COM!
We (eMoviePoster.com) hold 2,500 to 4,000 auctions every four weeks.
We have auctioned more movie paper for more money (in real sales) than any auction in the world.
We have the longest continuously running auctions of any auction, with over 1,914,280 to date from over 3,192 consignors.
See all of our current auctions in one gallery here: http://www.emovieposter.com/agallery/all.html

Online eatbrie

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Awesome Bruce, very helpful.

I would add that I personally use Filmoplast P90 tape (since I'm opposed to linenbacking) and it has worked great over the years.

Also, any recommendations to remove tape residue on paper?  I used to buy those adhesive NYC subway posters, and a few of them "licked" when it got too hot at a house I was renting years ago.  They are all sticky at the border.  Would you recommend bestine to remove the extra glue?  It's a little like what you mentioned, but a little different.

Someone supposedly "in the know" told me to use lighter fluid years ago, but it doesn't work.

T
« Last Edit: October 06, 2023, 02:10:31 PM by eatbrie »
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