I don't think the sprays are where its at. I may have to figure out mixing Magnesium Acetate and Magnesium Carbonate
Charlie,
You artistic at all? How far you lookin to take this, a do your own thing, side job, full time switch?
Just curious, I think the long term you really need to have to be able to work a brush/pencil whatever for the restoration side.
Dario (and Charlie),
What would the mylar polyester film be needed or used for in the backing process? For supporting a wet poster, when lifting it from the bath?
Yep.
That's what i thought.
Were you able to cancel (or change) that muslin order? ;)
A colour blind Artist........ pcorn
Hi Charlie,
The Muslin is not correct, to flimsy. You need to hit the art store and buy a high cotton canvas 12 -13 duck.
No use for Orvus.
The 301 wheat past is pre cooked. You should make your own. Meaning you do the cooking.
There is liquid Wei'to to buy
As far as washing table were you hose or spray mist? well is not really the right way to soak a poster. You Should build a bath were the poster can really relax, soak and get the paper impregnated with IE: CaCO3. Here a picture of a Stainless steal custom made bath that I had made and use.
Best of luck,
dario.
(http://members.shaw.ca/filmposters/ebaylist/bath2.gif)
Charlie, this certainly looks like quite the undertaking and I commend you on your resilience!
Looking forward to seeing your set up all finished.
Here Here..but a colour blind restorer! ;)
How do you wash larger paper; folded? I have my old poster box that I can convert into a wash tank but it's ~44" x 30" so an anything larger than a OS would have to be folded.
I know NOTHING about it, but I have a feeling that washing a poster folded might be dangerous.
I always get the "what color is my shirt?" I know what color your shirt is but if you go stand next to that brown light post I might get confused...
what color is my poop???Did you just eat Red Hots?
:-P
what color is my poop???
:-P
"i have been thinking about attempting to learn how to linen back myself"
i STRONGLY advise against this!
Bruce
Yes, I agree, you will need very strong glue and you might end up feeling a bit stiff afterwards.
Ok, so that involves removing any sticky bits, a good bath to get clean, deacidification, a good mounting, and if not good... touching up with a pencil. Are you sure???
Come to West Plains. I have 100 handyman jobs for you.I`m Pulpfixin!
I will pay you in posters!
Great work.
Bruce
Impressive Charlie (and I really like the drain you added) - I think I own a couple screwdrivers but that's about it :-[
:o
Good grief. Your wife must love you! Imagine all those little handyman jobs that always need to be done.
At least in your house there is half a chance they do actually get done!
Very impressed!
Phase 1, Step 2 - Frames for Canvas
Frame on canvas ready for stretching. Stretching was actually the hardest part so far. It was a bitch and my fingers hurt for an hour afterwards...
Pulpfixin Out!
Given you are gong to cut the canvas off the frame once finished I wonder why there isn't something like a metal frame that you can size to suit (the canvas), then clamp the canvas in place and wind the frame wider to stretch tight..
I would say not bad for a first try!
I can't really tell from the pics -has your backing job done away with most of the wrinkling and folds?
I can't really tell from the pics -has your backing job done away with most of the wrinkling and folds?
Top job!!! 8)
How much do you charge?
When you trim, I would leave a wee bit more of the linen.
Use a syringe to inject wheat paste into the air pocket.
Use a syringe to inject wheat paste into the air pocket.
When you trim, I would leave a wee bit more of the linen.
glue the whole sucker to the wall.
we soak noir daybills in flour and water and make papier mache bricks.
we soak noir daybills in flour and water and make papier mache bricks.
Charlie - I want to see you tackle some actual restoration now (yeah, I know we are moving quick!).
Let's see how the colouring goes on the fold lines?
Not all that bad Charlie. The real question is "are YOU satisfied with it?" - since you are backing these for your own use.
Your input would be greatly appreciated. Would you be satisfied with this?
wanna have a go on this? :P
(http://i1234.photobucket.com/albums/ff401/aririchards/IMGP1868.jpg)
But I guess CC is not exactly the cream of the crop.
Child labor laws do not apply for amateur works, right? Daughter wanted to stir the wheat paste...
(http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/lb_stuff/familyfun.jpg)
FREE LINEN-BACKING FOR EVERYBODY! WOO-HOO! woohoo
If you are hiring, these two are available:
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/254323_10150302971276241_236528126240_9684527_7856069_n.jpg)
We don't want human hands or breath touching the consignors' posters!
To make sure the new owner is the first one to drool over his posters ;)
I'm amazed at how well you're doing and the amount of effort and passion you put into things. Really great stuff...!
Here is the latest work comparison:DAMN DUDE!!!
"Thunderbolt and Lightfoot" US OS
Really proud of this one. Man we wash and wash and bleached and bleached. The top didn't come perfectly clean but it is much less noticable. I also touched up the folds and wrinkles...
Before|After (Click to enlarge)
(http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/lb_stuff/TBLFcomp/fullraw_thumb.jpg) (http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/lb_stuff/TBLFcomp/fullraw.jpg)(http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/lb_stuff/TBLFcomp/fullresto_thumb.jpg) (http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/lb_stuff/TBLFcomp/fullresto.jpg)
did you shoot any video of any of your process' either the construction or backing?
Man there is no time to do that. I start freaking out once I get the poster wet. It's actually not that difficult to back the poster; the touching up is definetly a learning experience. Just this morning I put some painter's tape down started touching up an edge and the farqer bled onto the masa. So there I was trying to blot, sandpaper, and mask an error. I am sure there is some way to do it; I see all the backers using painters tape, but did I get the right tape, did I not push it down enough/ was it because I should have let the color dry before pulling it off... I learn something on everyone of them. When your really ready (Or anyone else) I'll be glad to talk you through the whole thing...
It's been fun to watch this tread.I was wondering if your had been checking in. Glad you have been...
It's also nice to see that you got an appreciation for we do everyday all day long.
So from everything I've seen here and everything said. This is my best recommendation to you. Since you seem Hell bent on doing this and there is no turning back now.
Before you start plowing through your better paper and potentially down the road, others. I would strongly suggest hands on training with a pro.
On the conservation side, you need to know how to gauge the paper, calibrate the baths, knowing the strength of chemicals. Using Bleach is one of the most traumatic things you can do to paper. So wash and wash bleach and bleach at this stage will most likely be more damaging than good. That is just one of a myriad when it comes to the conservation side.
On the restoration side. That always starts of with a properly backed poster. When the poster have dried for a few days. Close your eyes, run your hand/fingers all across the poster. Is the poster completely flush or can you feel the folds?? Reason I say this, you mention that you want to sand the folds and then air brush. This would be totally wacky and wrong. If you sand the folds which are already broken, you would have eight piece of paper on linen rather than a complete poster.
I hope this has helped and that you take my recommendation.
Well as the risk goes down the price goes up... ;) And the risk is going down quicker than you think... It takes about 1.5 hours to back a poster from start to finish (w/o CT wash) and that doesn't even account for resto time...
One thing I have learned with this whole thing is to respect those who do this for a living. It's hard work. I now know why they charge extra for washing and deacidifying. And why $50/hr for resto is reasonable...
My back was sore after the first time. My clothes get all wet. I've got a blister on my right ring finger from the staple gun... I think my skin peeled off on my right leg yesterday because I didn't wash the CT off fast enough.... I've dirtied every bread plate with watercolors and taken up half our formal living and dining...
DAMMIT!!! I knew that I should have sent you 10 posters, not just the two moron1 moron1 moron1 I should have had more faith that a fellow collector such as yourself would go above and beyond to make sure these restorations are done correctly.
Your time, effort, struggles and pain and all worth of praise and admiration. I salute you good sir! cheers
Whenever you are able to find time to work on more of my stuff I will be willing to pay whatever price you think is fair.
Thanks,
Jon
I''m impressed and very pleased for you Charlie - great job
Time for some fun. Remember this one Mel? When I first joined APF, Mel and I exchanged a few e-mails and I told him I was fond of "The Deep". He recommended I get this poster but it is from a playboy and on two separate pages. So now I can finally make it a poster... Wish me luck. Going to do a couple of Belgians too..
Yeah, I like it but the two pieces don't match on mine - the water color is significantly different on both parts, so it can't really be "fixed."
The best poster for this is the special book promo (http://movieposters.ha.com/c/item.zx?saleNo=161120&lotNo=50109) - 14.5" x 75(!)"
The best poster for this is the special book promo (http://movieposters.ha.com/c/item.zx?saleNo=161120&lotNo=50109) - 14.5" x 75(!)"
I think Charlie already has that one Mel: http://www.allposterforum.com/index.php/topic,177.msg71134.html#msg71134
Time for some fun. Remember this one Mel? When I first joined APF, Mel and I exchanged a few e-mails and I told him I was fond of "The Deep". He recommended I get this poster but it is from a playboy and on two separate pages. So now I can finally make it a poster... Wish me luck. Going to do a couple of Belgians too..
(http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/lb_stuff/smalls/small001.jpg)
Well I think I mounted Jacqueline too hard.
I got carry away sponging off her top portion... ;) The magazine surface just washed away... I'll have to see what it looks like when it dries.
inconceivable!
I would love to take your recommendation but I have no idea where to receive training; I guess it would be paper conservation training versus movie poster conservation training. Right? University with a Library Science degree?
Charlie you really have to try a more vintage poster. I think the colouring results will display much better outside the modern glossy paper...
First poster collecting blasphemy or sacrilege...
It's not basphemy with an Eddie Murphy poster... ;)
Charlie, you gonna try any 80s/90s paper(the ones with some gloss) to see if they can be backed?
Your doing a great job!
Audrey looks much better, but doesn't she always. ;)
Truly a great job Charlie
In your professional opinion from what grade to what grade have you taken these posters?
Where's this chick, Charlie?
(http://www.clker.com/cliparts/7/8/3/2/11949855931744447303arrow-left-green_benji_p_01.svg.thumb.png)Where's this chick, Charlie?
I sorry about Jacqueline mate but I'm talking Raquel. ;)
Daybills really agree with the linenbacking process. The folds disappear and the colours pop without too much work at all!
That ain't the only thing 'popping' on that daybill.
A tip for using the Bestine for tape removal... Don't saturate the poster too much. I had fully saturated the tape (and poster) from front and back to hopefully loosen a stubborn piece of tape. I turned out removing a thin layer of the artwork in two places as I gently pulled the tape back! And it wasn't from recklessly pulling the tape. It happened in an instant and there was no saving it. I think the Bestine had saturated the poster so much that the surface became fragile. If you think it might be a stubborn piece of tape, it might be good to saturate and then let it dry, then saturate and let dry... that might help to weaken the tape bond, while letting the poster regain it's integrity. Then do it one more time and actually pull the tape without saturating the poster so heavily. Just an idea... I'm still a newbie with this.
It may be that the surface of the poster had already detached? Before tape removal?
Update: Chip Guy's Fighter Poster
First I removed all the remaining tape residue from the front and back with Bestine and then sanded down the non-sticky residue on the back. And then all hell broke loose when I got it wet. This one started de-laminating after the first wash. Bubbles started forming between the front glossy side and the back paper side. So after a hour of oh so carefully taking an exacto and breaking the bubbles to release the fluid pockets it actually turned out ok.. There were some issues but I think once I touch it up it well present very well. It was a bitch though Jon!
I just made a gallery. also showed stretching a canvas...
http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/jons_backings/poster2/index.htm
Pulpfixin exhausted and had to have a drink after this one...
Looking good Charlie on all accounts. thumbup
I did an example report on your poster; I need to PDF it and then I'll post it here and on the blog...
Nice Charlie. Very Nice. How do I sign up?
I did an example report on your poster; I need to PDF it and then I'll post it here and on the blog...
Ok check it out and let me know what else it may need....
Man, no half stepping with the NOES quad. What is the Neverending Story poster in the back? A one sheet?
It was a great learning experience. So with out further delay the Before & After Pictures... Click to enlarge.
OK guys you have to check our work out on the NOES. With the backing and touchups it took about and hour to back (wash, CT, deacid) and 3 hours to touch-up both of us going most times. We revisited a few times. We would work of a part and come back. We did 99% with water soluble sticks and I had to do the lettering (mostly the black in between) with gauche (opaque) water colors. Not all the folds are completely undetectable but the majority are. I had to work hard on the face and am very proud of it. My wife there for a while just handed me colors (cause I am colorblind :))... I kept referring to one of them specifically as Juicy Blue... Give me the "Juicy Blue". It was a great learning experience. So with out further delay the Before & After Pictures... Click to enlarge.
(http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/daves_backings/poster1_BAA_thumb.jpg) (http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/daves_backings/poster1_BAA.jpg)
I think Dave got a hell of a deal! Now if it just rolls up nicely. I am so scared to roll them for some reason... They are very tight when first taken off the frame...
I do not have multiples of any of those posters!! I just figured why not .. if it worked out they would look great and if not .. Its just a poster I can spend another 4 years finding new copies ;)
There is some stuff you can spray over the entire poster that evens out the light reflection.
Some restorers use hair spray... Another reason linen backing doesn't add much value - you might get a sprayed one.
Second: Ted, others, and I were discussing LB in chat the other night and there seemed to be a differing of opinion regarding use of reversible processes. Some were of the opinion that its not really revesible as the poster would have to be re-backed even if the old backing was removed (true). But what about touch-ups? I recall that there was talk that if it looked good why would you worry about reversibility? Thoughts?
Hey Charlie,
Would you ever make a video for youtube and show us how its done? (washing, linen backing, process, touching up, etc)
Hiya! Sorry! I am very late for Charlies Linen Backing party.
So I had a look at some of the images and here's what I see.
Of course these are friendly pointers!
1. You want as much natural day light as possible. It looks like you guys are working in the evening with a single light? :o
If schedule allows work in day time? open the curtains flood the room with as much natural light as possible for as accurate match as possible.
Two! right, a bit dark in the room, but I am trying to make out what you are using for touch ups. My guess is Caran d'Ache Neocolor II? If so, these are very soft/creamy/Oil based. They won dry, they will smudge any time, even few years down the road. They are reversible, but they most likely will leave oil stains in the tracks after removing. Also they are not really fine point. You want something with a super fine point for better detail and less intrusive fold touch ups.
I use Faber-Castell Albrecht Durer Watercolor Pencils.
Anyhow, I am starting to feel like a party pooper. Maybe this should be my last post.
All the best,
dario.
Hey Charlie,
Would you ever make a video for youtube and show us how its done? (washing, linen backing, process, touching up, etc)
Hi Charlie,
I read this,
<<<< Also, criticism would be really great at this point. Do we suck (my wife is helping)? Are we doing so so? I have never sent a poster that had folds to be backed and touched up so I have no frame of reference. Pictures don't always tell the whole story so those of you that have sent stuff out please chime in with you stories and/or expectations... I would really appreciate it... >>>>
Not criticizing you, but felt a few valuable pointers would be good. Also, I don't have the final words here, I'd hate to thinks so.
You are certainly free to do what ever/how ever is fit for your style of work.
I personally and I don't know anyone else that use or would use creamy oil sticks for fold work. just to soft and it doesn't give you that pin point accuracy. I would assume leaving that on there, it would/could stain the paper after a few years? I don't know for sure and I wouldn't risk it. That's why I said in previous post <<<<but they most likely will leave oil stains in the tracks after removing >>>> I am Sorry if that came across worse than it really is.
End of the day, all good!
All the best,
dario.
PS: thanks 50's for confirming the top notch quality of Faber-Castell Albrecht Durer Watercolor Pencils. More money than most brands, but well worth it!
PSS: I am not Republican, I am Canadian! moron1, but looking in from the outside. I would vote Obama! :)
Mute points are always better left unsaid.
So I stopped by and got some Krylon Workable Matte Finish and sprayed the two quads... I can definetly see why some backers would want to use this stuff it made all the shiny contrast almost disappear. The posters look even better... Else the quads and wax/oil pastel are locked down...
Charlie,
Is this Krylon spray removable? To spray a matte finish spray on a retouched poster is something I have never read about on any restorer's or linen backer's website, as a finishing option. Have you found some that use this product? Just on it's face, to spray an entire poster with this kind of product that will also "seal" everything in place seems like a no no, from a conservation POV, especially.
Products Used
I use a 12 ounce Indian acid free canvas. This provides a durable solid foundation that can be easily rolled for shipping and storage.
The paper used is a Japanese Masa paper that is acid free and makes for an excellent buffer between the movie poster and the canvas.
The glue is made from a wheat starch adhesive that is prepared by hand.
The pigments used are Stabilo Softcolour water soluable colour sticks. I also use Cotman Water Colours and other brands of paint when airbrushing is required.
I use Workable Fixative and/or Clear Matte to finish the poster and prevent smudging.
FWIW, we used thie Krylon fixative heavily in my parent's photgraphy business. It worked well in protecting touch up work we did on photos for spot removal, and retouching. It also came in several finishes to match the photo paper.
Now, it may interfere with some person's idea of "originality", but I would think no more than linenbacking, fold elimination, paper replacement or anything else we do to restore older paper.
Excellent point... If it doesn't hurt the paper then the originality is the only remaining question and personal preference...
Also, Charlie, You sprayed the quads and said they looked better. Do you have pics with the spray to show comparison?
Well done Charlie for trying different techniques and sharing the results. I am wondering, did the steam leach any brown out of the tape onto the paper (might be a bit hard to tell I guess)? If so, maybe try half the tape with steam and the other half bestine to see if there is any difference. thumbup
What is that thing you are using Charlie? Some sort of steamer?
Well done Charlie for trying different techniques and sharing the results. I am wondering, did the steam leach any brown out of the tape onto the paper (might be a bit hard to tell I guess)? If so, maybe try half the tape with steam and the other half bestine to see if there is any difference. thumbup
Blue Moon Beer it is a really nice Belgian.
The last time I checked Coors brewery was also in Burton-On-Trent, in the middle of the UK.
After you drink a 12 pack of Blue Moon, do you start speaking Belgian?
After you drink a 12 pack of Blue Moon, do you start speaking Belgian?
After you drink a 12 pack of Blue Moon, do you start speaking Belgian?
Yep. It is used to remove wallpaper...
In my opinion, If I were to get something linenbacked. I would prefer whatever method works the best to make the poster look the best. As long as it is an archival solution. Then I wouldn't care if you use fixative (assuming the poster will look better).
Ask Poster Mountain, I believe in one of their blogs they stated they used it on a poster.
Hi Charlie,
Yes, I believe it could be removed by softening in water, but that might be hard on your poster. ;p
The casein does harden over time, and become water resistant, esp with exposure to UV light, but a nice soak ought to make it removeable. It is slightly on the alkaline side of pH neutral, which is good for conservation.
Of course, I've never tried the above.. so I would suggest you try it before committing a poster. The casein won't be as removable as watercolor, of course, since wc doesn't contain a real binder.. just gum arabic. Since casein is a glue I wonder if it would require a light 'encouragement' with a brush to let go entirely... and would this be okay for the poster? Would the ink come off?
It should work well for isolating layers though, and does get along well with watercolors. You can also use it to create your own paints with soft pastels and casein.
OK to clarify the fixative use from poster mountain. They used it on a piece of artwork to protect it during backing... Not to finish off a poster. But why would a backer actually admit to using it anyway. I am sure they all do something... But that is what is so tiresome about this art. No one will tell you anything or tell you the whole truth; especially the turn key tip... It may even just come down to quality of the watercolors for all I know...
Sorry for any misconception. I didn't mean to start a fuss or anything. I was just trying to help Charlie find an answer.
When I seached Google for Linenbacking Fixative. One of the blogs came up, Hence I just stated ask Poster Mountain.
"We applied a fixative to the existing pigments before beginning the mounting procedure"
"Once the piece had been sprayed with fixative, the pastels pigments were stable enough for us to carefully mount it."
Thats what came up in my Cache. That is why I stated what I had.
I'm not sure what you are clarifying here. I wrote John and specifically asked him about PM using fixatives or sealers on movie posters. I didn't ask it a general blanket question, since other situations (like the art example you sited, could come into play). He said they never use any kind of sealer on movie posters, as part of their restoration and conservation efforts. Aside from the fact that it is not considered archival (in his view), he also said that the high quality water based color media they use don't require anything more, to "set" the color to the paper.
And why would you suggest he was being untruthful when he said his company doesnt use it? If it was another material in their arsenal to use on posters, he would have said so. It's not like it is some controversial substance. He wrote and said many restorers/backers DO use it; Poster Mountain doesnt, and I have no reason to doubt that.
I know John, and have used PM; they do great work and none of my posters were sprayed with anything (nor was I ever offered that option, when minor color touch-ups were done). :)
I thiunk it will always come down to the fact pro's don't want to give away what they have had to learn themselves. Which is fair enough, its their living.
I had a poster that was already mounted to linen that needed to be re-backed. PM did the work. John said if it didn't look like it would come off the old backing easily (or if for instance it had been dry mounted to foam core) he had a product that he could put on the front of the poster to protect the artwork. That way when he was scraping the paper off the old backing -- which as I understand it is a very rough process -- he would be much less likely to damage the artwork from the back. Then when the poster had been removed, he had an enzyme that would dissolve what he applied to the front. Maybe that is what PM was referring too... something applied during the restoration process (to 'fix' the artwork), but then removed before linen backing it.
IMO, I would prefer no fixtative. All of my linen-backed posters look great from the front, but when you look at it (way) off axis you can see that the restoration lines have a matte finish while the paper is usually more of a satin. I've never found it bothersome in the least.
I absolutely don't mean this to come off as flip, but how often are you looking at a poster from that angle and from that close?
I had a poster that was already mounted to linen that needed to be re-backed. PM did the work. John said if it didn't look like it would come off the old backing easily (or if for instance it had been dry mounted to foam core) he had a product that he could put on the front of the poster to protect the artwork. That way when he was scraping the paper off the old backing -- which as I understand it is a very rough process -- he would be much less likely to damage the artwork from the back. Then when the poster had been removed, he had an enzyme that would dissolve what he applied to the front. Maybe that is what PM was referring too... something applied during the restoration process (to 'fix' the artwork), but then removed before linen backing it.
IMO, I would prefer no fixtative. All of my linen-backed posters look great from the front, but when you look at it (way) off axis you can see that the restoration lines have a matte finish while the paper is usually more of a satin. I've never found it bothersome in the least.
I absolutely don't mean this to come off as flip, but how often are you looking at a poster from that angle and from that close?
@ Mike - yes that is my concern.
But in what I am reading is that changes in finish may no be as big of an issue as I originally thought. Like I posted before, I haven't seen many backed and touched up posters in person so I may have been operating under a paradym that the Darios and PMs of the backing world "mint" a poster every time with out any hint of restoration. I just don't/didn't want to be satisfied with mediocre work...
Like many others, I am of the thinking that "less is more." If a poster has survived, let's say, from the 1920s, 30s or 40s, (and if a foreign poster, made it thru the War, for example), I would not want every bit of its 'life' to be buried under a layers of added color. Small dings, "bumps and bruises" are part of that poster's history, IMO. There are those, however, that would prefer the opposite. It's all a matter of preference.
Charlie really fixed up my Back to Eternity. The fold lines were very distracting but - poof - they are gone....
Much obliged! cheers
Glad you like it. You should see it person. It is laying here behind me all silky smooth... I think I love backing older posters...
Pulpfixin,mate, the results you are achieving are to be applauded..there is no stopping you,keep it up.
Stew
I cannot believe the results you've all been getting
That Lost Boys quad is astounding. I had no idea that such a feat was possible.
And to get rid of the fold lines and wear from the Point Break and Mel's poster is truly amazing.
I am in awe. I knew restoration would improve a poster but not to that degree.
Anyone care to tell how much that work costs?
Charlie,
Excellent work.
How hard is airbrushing? Have you had experience with it before?
Gotta get some videos up 8)
You Aussies (and Canadian) don't drool over some finished off daybills... OK? One looks very familiar...huh?
I must say, for some reason the colours really POP on backed daybills
I think they been boosted, man... wynk
Were any of them touched up?
Was it the Scarface Charlie?
I love your work on the Jimmie too btw, I just made a deal for the Flower poster in my av but it's a beat up folded version..... ;) ;) ;)
Heh heh heh.... I missed this one.. Congrats!!!! I assume you will be contacting your local linenbacker to straighten it out? ;)
I could do videos and blog techniques etc...
You know I have been getting the itch to turn pulpfixin.com into a clearing house for amateur backers... I've done the math and this will never be a profession for me. Why not share what I have learned? Wonder if I would end up in a creek bed like Dario suggests, if I did something like this... As easy as it sounds and somewhat is, it requires quite an investment in money, space, and time. It is not like you can wake up one morning take a trip to the art store and be linenbacking a poster by the evening... Well you can but it won't come out that great. I don't see a real danger to the pros out there... Any thoughts?
I could do videos and blog techniques etc...
Sounds like a great idea, Charlie!
Can't wait for the first instalment or pilot episode. ;D
Can't wait for the first instalment or pilot episode. ;D
This would be great to see.
Stew
This poster is no more! It has ceased to be!
'E's kicked the bucket, 'e's shuffled off 'is mortal coil, run down the curtain and joined the bleedin' choir invisibile!!
Don't give me ideas... I am already planning some comedy skits. But that would betops to do a different movie theme for each video in. The series... anyone want to volunteer to do the rewrites...
If you want comedy skits, just post Chris Cloutier's Posterfix videos
sneak into Darios house and film him in the shower.
I have heard that's how he washes the posters before backing them...probably makes them more valuable now that I think about it
Any upcoming videos yet Charlie?
(http://images.zaazu.com/img/Taking-Video-video-videocam-camera-smiley-emoticon-000424-facebook.gif)
Wow! You guys flatter me. I am just trying my best...
I was just goofin' about "the art department at the daybill printers." I forgot about your condition with difficulty distinguishing certain colors. It's not all bad, though, since you can make it more of a family/team effort dealio, to help do good work. From the pictures, all the stuff you've done looks excellent. thumbup
I have a couple Id like to send out to you.
Have you posted a pricing schedule?
No pricing schedule... probably never will be. Just send me a Grace Kelly or two. ;) I don't want the pressures of a second job so as long as it stays as informal and liesurely as possible I'll keep doing it. Besides you guys know who the pros are. I am just having fun trying to perfect a craft.
Charlie, thats great work You are hired!
Let me know when you have free time and you wanna try a couple of Italian 2Fs.
Looks great framed too!
Ive been trying to get him to do 4 & 6 sheets as well! Come on Charlie .. you know you wanna try some awesome large format posters! :)
It's interesting it's cellulose, I read years back when gel backing was being discussed at nsfge that it had a gelatine base, which put me off, I wouldn't like to have a gelatine backed poster, that's just gross.
I'd be interested in knowing all the ingredients used in restoration and backing.
Here's one of the old threads at nsfge you might want to read, never know what might help.
http://stylec.yuku.com/topic/767/another-conservation-process
Got something for you Mel... moron1 I guess we both missed this mess on the back of the Voodoo Woman.
Crazy sock day! I always wonder what my daughter will think about all this when she get older...
(http://pulpfixin.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/IMG_0339.jpg)
pcorn
I was looking through the Heritage auction catalog tonight. There were several linen posters that caught my eye. But images of moldy pieces of crap, frankensteined back to life with water colors and glossy paste kept flashing in my head.
First, congrats on the big A&M win. Secondly, you suck. This thread is like the Masked Magician revealing all the secrets on how to make crappy posters look good.
I was looking through the Heritage auction catalog tonight. There were several linen posters that caught my eye. But images of moldy pieces of crap, frankensteined back to life with water colors and glossy paste kept flashing in my head.
I am just having a hard time justifying several thousand on a poster where you do not know whether it had major or minor surgery. ;D
Brian
To tell you the truth, I am pretty close to pitching all the paints and pencils and just doing the conservation. What do they call that? European style! 8)
Sold!
I really do want you to save my Italian Zorba and maybe a couple of other posters I have. I Like them the way they are. I just dont want them to die.
My wife is starting to really get good with the touch-ups. The older posters are much easier to work on... Mel's Blonde Ice was one of the first posters I used filling compound (methylcellulose + Cellulose powder). The compound took water colors really well. Usually we had to airbrush the border area, but not with the compound. No airbrushing required on this one...
Here is Mel's Blond Ice ready for framing (click to enlarge):
Thanks Charlie! I hear rumors of hearsay you'll be up in DC soon, mayhaps I shall invite you to my poster lair, not for the faint of heart 8)
Excellent work, Team Charlie. thumbup
Quite a transformation there Charlie. Good work!
I do have to ask - who in the hell was trying to peddle that for $150 in that condition?!
Finally getting to do some of my stuff now.. Did 5 smaller posters, 3 daybills, 2 locindinas, and then I decided to try something more difficult...
I love this stuff! Especially when it's mine and there is no pressure...
Was that a tape mark going from her B cups upwards previously?
Yeah it was on the back of the poster that had darkened. Either that or Mel had some fun with it before he mailed it on... Single guys eyeroll; I washed it though...
Yeah it was on the back of the poster that had darkened. Either that or Mel had some fun with it before he mailed it on... Single guys eyeroll; I washed it though...
It's come up a treat!!! Congrats!
Btw, how old is your youngest staff member again?
Very impressive!
I just want to thank all the staff at Pulpfixin, service second to none (don't tell Dario I said that), progress pics, the whole biz., thanks again!
Kudos to Team Charlie! clap
Well done Charlie! Kick ass work.
Im still waiting for you to take some 6-sheets! :)
Well done Charlie! Kick ass work.
What is next? Well larger posters for Z
Kick ass is perfect. Great stiff Charlie.
Looking forward to it! ;D
Great stiff from me too!
f you still want to chip in (and you can always PM me): CaOH2 or CaCO3? and CaClO2 or Chlormine-T? I am leaning towards CaOH2 and CaClO2... and Acetic Acid baths...I found this info ,not being a chemist , this is a bit out of my league.
(http://i50.tinypic.com/2m4f820.jpg)
Some afternoon fun...
So you are having a great friday.
Great posters you have to play with.
I wonder who's they are? ;)
Zorba...you cheeky devil, you never told us you had those posters?
You ask a lot of questions!
One Year Anniversary!
Thanks for putting up with me.
Great stuff Charlie!
What would you say is the correct amount of calcium carbonate to put in to your wheat starch?
Thanks!
One Year Anniversary!
Thanks for putting up with me.
Congrats Charlie! Love you new av btw.
Aren't there acid free wallpaper adhesives, maybe with fungicides, that would make it a lot easier and be as effective?
Thanks for the reply Charlie. I am in the UK and have access to the wheat starch. It is the actual cooking of it that I need to know. What is the best way to cook it? Cheers, John
Great that sounds easy enough! I had an interesting reply on another forum regarding the adding of calcium carbonate to the wheat paste mix. One restorer said that the water in the mix needs to be slightly acidic so that the CaCO3 dissolves as H2o with a PH of 7 cannot do it. He said that bicarbonated water can be used as it is slightly acidic (5.5 to 6.5). At 17p for a large 2 litre bottle it's not too expensive purchased from ASDA (U.S. equivalent is Wal-Mart). I don't know about your neck of the woods but distilled water is bloody expensive over here so the idea of using bicarbonated (because of the price primarily) appeals to me much more!! The restorer also suggested using the bicarbonate water during the bathing procedure with CaCO3 as well.
Charlie do you add sugar to your mix?
Cooking it is easy. You just add the CaCO3 mix it up so it looks like milk; let it sit/soak for an hour or so and then cook on medium heat until nice and creamy/sticky... But don't over cook it, lumps will form. Then let it cool first - I stick mine in the fridge for a few hours. Then you can make batches and thin it down with distilled water using a blender... Always strain it to remove any lumps - don't want those under the masa or poster....
Hi
Had my first go at making wheat paste this afternoon. I cooked it 1 cup to 4 cups water (although I did need to use about another cup of water), added 10% calcium carbonate and cooked for 40 minutes on a low heat. I let it cool then sieved it but I was half expecting the end result to be transparent but as you can see from the photograph it wasn't.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c25/skywalker71/2013-06-03182925_zps687efb18.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/skywalker71/media/2013-06-03182925_zps687efb18.jpg.html)
Does this look correct?
John
No I confess to not soaking it for an hour...is this important Charlie?
Oops sorry try this http://youtu.be/4RpXrodsvRU
;)
Third time lucky
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4RpXrodsvRU
Thanks, John
Impressive doings Charlie - you (and the Mrs.) have come a long way in a short time!
Well Dr. J convinced me to do a few of mine that I've been wanting to do... This one turned out great! Rich (http://movieposterbid.com/) scored me this Sabrina US OS full of acid and tanning - Thanks guy! But behind all of it was one of the best preserved copies I've seen!
After an intense session including two deacidification and bleach treatments, I finally got the colors to pop! I am not sure what happened but the bleach just stopped bleaching, so I had to neutralize it and deacidify it again and then the second bleach treatment worked... In the after photo there are no paper repairs at all and only minor touch ups on the "R" in SABRINA and at the top crossfold... I almost let it sit European style it was so nice. I took a razor to scrape away some of the staining but that is it. If anyone has ever held this poster in there hands, un-restored, the paper is terrible - thin and brittle. It had to be done!
(http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/082013/Sabrina_Before.jpg)
(http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/082013/Sabrina_After.jpg)
that looks great Charlie, but I knew it would because I knew Sabrina was structurally sound and there was obviously no paper loss.
congrats buddy
And I agree with the 3 Bums previously... :D
Man this is getting to be a lot of ass cheeks!
What's wrong with lots of ass? :o
Queue the flood of ass images, some good, some...less so pcorn
Not what you were expecting muhahaha
What a nightmare this one was... But it's done.
Part 2 of the Hope Goddard Trifecta complete:
That looks great, Charlie and family thumbup
How is this guy not involved in several litigation processes?
Lul, thought I had the Posterfix thread up, but obviously it was in a different tab. My bad, Charlie. Keep up the great work!
I thought you were suggesting Charlie make a career change ;)
As for the poster - looks great Charlie!
Actually from the look of the work lately, I think Charlie has made leaps and bounds in his craft.
Random, but what is the largest size poster you can work with now, Charlie?
Wow!...It looks awful purty.
(http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c102/skyjackers/tick_zpse4a613df.jpg)
Only the one sheet/quad sizes... I've made a frame for a 1/2 subway but haven't done that one yet and I have the 60" mylar for the larger stuff just haven't gotten around to it.
No I just googled big tick for an image because the text ticks didn't seem to be working. Saw the image and found it amusing, I guess you didn't? Regardless of the image your work is still very impressive, as the 'Great stuff' from my initial post hopefully indicated.
OK I am going to do it... I guess the first topic should be basics on what linenbacking is etc... I'll work up a skit.... Please feel free to drop some topics... It is not really possible to do one video on the whole thing... So maybe:
Background & History
Basic Supplies
Tools
Tables
Building Frames
Canvas Stretching
Making Wheat Paste
Getting a poster wet
Washing
Chemistry
Deacidification
Bleaching
Placing the Masa
Placing the Poster
Paper Fills - Paper
Paper Fills - Pulp
Touch Ups
AirBrushing
Paper Types and what that means
Troubleshooting
Drying and Storage
Cutting it down
Trimming
Shipping
Sadly I can see that all pictures in first posts have disappeared, making it difficult to follow Charlie's path.
K. Drop me a line when you want to explore the 3sh realm. Got some good stuff for you to mess with.
[quote author=Charlie
Have you been saving this one for a while?
No I just googled big tick for an image because the text ticks didn't seem to be working. Saw the image and found it amusing, I guess you didn't? Regardless of the image your work is still very impressive, as the 'Great stuff' from my initial post hopefully indicated.
I also have some 4 and 6 sheets I've been threatening to send for a while now too! ;)
the text ticks didn't seem to be working.
It has cathedral ceilings so one of the walls can be used for larger posters; even six sheets. Maybe 6 months?
Well once we redo the kitchen (cabinets have been ordered) the plan is to dedicate an existing 3/4 or our informal for a studio - wife approved! She really enjoys doing the touch-ups and paint mixing...
It has cathedral ceilings so one of the walls can be used for larger posters; even six sheets. Maybe 6 months?
What a nightmare this one was... But it's done.
Part 2 of the Hope Goddard Trifecta complete:
(http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/082013/NBTT_LB.jpg)
Hi APF people !!
New here... very interesting thread ! Kudos to Charlie & wife.
Sadly I can see that all pictures in first posts have disappeared, making it difficult to follow Charlie's path.
Topics listed above are great. I have already checked many videos online on linen backing but I am sure Charlie has some hidden secrets and great tips.
Charlie, have you drafted any tutorial or DIY sheet about topics listed above ?? I would really interested with a basic list of supplies as well as chemistry side of it (deacidication and bleaching).
Thanks
Most of the pics are back up from early on... Some I could not find. Make sure to read through my blog there are some more pics and write ups... A lot now that is outdated.
Kind of in a weird place... When I started literally no one would help with the exception of a few tips from Dario... I stumbled and fumble my way through developing my own techniques and process, studying tirelessly academic papers and reference sites for paper conservation. Reviewing artist techniques in books and websites... Experimenting on my own stuff which is when I grew the most (since I didn't want to botch other's posters)... I did lose two posters... and many I did are sore to my eye as I could have made them much better with the knowledge I have now!
Not really sure how much I want to give away. I think I understand why Dario seemed to only to give a little information but never the answer I was looking for... It's all here in the thread and all out there - it can be done again by a motivated individual. And even though I feel like I've made great strides, there is even more that I can learn, more to experiment with... I am owning what I know, but there is more!
Probably not the answer that you wanted, but please fell free to message me for a tip here or there...
If that's not enough, Poster Mountain has a $5,000 weekend class... But I wouldn't recommend taking it. Study up and send me some questions.
-Charlie
No, I really thought it was hilarious! Actually lol a bit... Just figured if I saw that pic I may have just saved it for later use...
cheers
Hey Charlie, ever done a poster with day-glow colours?
I was curious how you match those up, if you have can you post some pics.. :)
(http://i590.photobucket.com/albums/ss348/frankenstein31_photos/Pauls%20posters/PICT0382.jpg) (http://s590.photobucket.com/user/frankenstein31_photos/media/Pauls%20posters/PICT0382.jpg.html)
Thanks Ted, I have two day-glow posters that need some attention, one of them is possibly the only one left... :-\
Well my butt hurts, my back hurts, my hands hurt, and my feet hurt. 8 AM to 6 PM marathon backing session and two changes of clothes later...
A poster I got in trade from Mel finally coming back to life...
(http://www.abideposters.com/apf_junk/102013/IMG_1463.JPG)
Hi Charlie,
Is this your work on EMP? I seem to recall you working these quads early on.
http://auctions.emovieposter.com/Bidding.taf?_function=detail&Auction_uid1=3168705
http://auctions.emovieposter.com/Bidding.taf?_function=detail&Auction_uid1=3168707
http://auctions.emovieposter.com/Bidding.taf?_function=detail&Auction_uid1=3168706
Yes Leslie we did all three of those for Dave... Now I just need to figure out where I put our contract with that 50/50 resale clause. ;)
Happy for you Dave!
I'm just in front of you Charlie, I finished my Kitchen off this morning... woohoo
I bet it will look incredible!!
I wish I had one tenth of your energy, Charlie! I envy you.
Seems like restoration is a lot of work. What are your thoughts Charlie is it cheaper to do it yourself or easier to just send it off and have someone else do it??
I would say that the only cost savings is in backing those posters that you wouldn't send off - way on down the line after you've absorbed the costs. Else, I've probably spent close to 4K at this point. The learning curve is terribly expensive... I've probably spent $1000 alone on touching up alone - air brush equipment (lucky I had a compressor - got a new little one for Christmas to replace the one for my nail guns), paints (before my break, I bought five different shades of purple to work on the Blood Simple ea @ $7 - $10), water color sets (on my fourth one - should have listen to Dario and Steve), brushes, frisket, acetate, tape (low adhesion tape is expensive), art knifes, etc... Probably another $1500 so far in masa (I picked up two types a bright white and off white), canvas, Japanese mending, holytex, and mylar. Then you've got the frames - I probably have made 15-20 frames of various sizes. Then you need a device to staple/nail and stretch the canvas (lucky I had a finish nailer) - the manual stapler took too long, I burnt up the electric stapler and finally went with a pneumatic finish nailer with staples at a lower PSI as not to destroy the canvas... Nails ain't cheap though $20 -$30 a box... Then you have all the adhesives and chems and experimental stuff. Wheat Paste, methyl, CMC, acetic, Calhydrox, alchohol, bleach, spot bleach, CT, on and on... Now lets not forget the tables and baths... Tools to finish, burnishers, picks, q-tips, syringes, rollers (which I am to abandon thanks to a tip from Dario!) sand paper, fill, wash table. My mylar drying setup... Then you need a place to put all the goodies bought a $300 tool cabinet to keep the place clean...
I guess what I am trying to say is that it was never about saving the money after I got started. I may have had some predetermined ideas about saving money at the beginning, but the challenge is where it is at for me!
So cheaper to do it yourself? Maybe if you open a shop, hire someone, and slip yours in during slow times. Else, IMO, it's a big commitment for less than at least 100 posters or so...
Hope I didn't burst any bubbles.
Good work, Charlie. cool1
Have you thought about doing some gelatin resizing?
Iwater color sets (on my fourth one - should have listen to Dario and Steve)....
What set do you recommend?
Yikes..
Guess my Crayolas aren't up to snuff eh?
Guess my Crayolas aren't up to snuff eh?PEEEEEERRRRRFEEECT Chris. They will work wonder on those daybils of yours and Davids LMAO ;) ;D
for daybills? PERFECT (had to beat them to it)
Good write up -- especially for those who also may have assumed (or thought) that the 2 terms were basically interchangeable, or one in the same.
Great info as always Charlie! thumbup
Thanks Charlie, good reading thumbsup.gif
Good points. But wonder if both terms are more widely used in Europe..Meaning that we here are (sadly?) aware that are not the same. Over here there are plenty of conservation paper experts, but no restorers (or none that are good enough). And they are very clear that they do JUST conservation work and if you ask, they will attempt MINIMAL restoration, so we are left with posters that have been preserved for eternity, but looking like in need of some good TLC. Which I think it makes the poster look worse.
I keep saying to them that i to ''conserve'' my poster, they dont need to conserve the mould marks thank you very much moron1
1. Igor Edleman (Edelman Restoration Studio) (Now run by Lena and Lara - not sure who the apprentice is, Rufat?)
1.1. Mario Cueva (Lumiere Poster Restoration)
2. Jim Sanchez
3. Joe Hernandez (Studio C)
3.1. Judy Jones (The Poster Patch)
3.2. John Davis (Poster Mountain)
3.2.1. Melissa, Katie, & Chelsea (4th Cone)
3.3. Gordon Christman (Gordon G. Christman Restoration)
3.4. Sylvia Locken (Precision Restoration)
3.5. Susan Olson (Deceased - here is a very nice tribute. She appears to have been a great gal)
3.6. Carol Tincup (Carol Tincup Fine Art Restoration) Can't find a site though.
3.7. Diane Jeffrey (Studio C)
3.8. Jaime and Norma Mendez (Jaime Mendez Restoration)
4. J. Fields Studio (now Papersmith)
4.1. Chris Cloutier (Posterfix)
5. Crowell Havens Beech
6. Sei Peterson
And they are very clear that they do JUST conservation work and if you ask, they will attempt MINIMAL restoration, so we are left with posters that have been preserved for eternity, but looking like in need of some good TLC. Which I think it makes the poster look worse.
I keep saying to them that i to ''conserve'' my poster, they dont need to conserve the mould marks thank you very much moron1
Collector use the two terms loosely. "Are you going to have it restored?" "Are you going to get it backed?" No one says "Are you going to have it conserved?" But in the first two (I will step down from all) most collectors assume that restoration and linenbacking including conservation practices.
I also know that Dario is known for being a more informative and helpful than most (explanation of steps, in-progress photos, etc...). It helps to have someone hold your hand through this process...
I agree with this 100%. When I send something off to be "backed" or "restored" my assumption is that it is also being conserved for long-term preservation.
When I send something off to be "backed" or "restored" my assumption is that it is also being conserved for long-term preservation. It's more than a little disconcerting to find out this isn't always the case and/or that there doesn't appear to be any sort of standardization across the industry. I definitely appreciate Charlie's Herculean effort to learn the process and share his results so publicly. I have for one have learned a TON through his writings!
I really don't think one can expect there to be any standardization across the industry. It's just the type of work that can't be fully disclosed, for various reasons.
When Dave and I designed our web page www.vintagemovieart.ca we wanted it to be user friendly, informative.
I think the mission statement on the front page is great. I would think it would make sense to most?
If you want just conservation. I'll wash your poster, buffer and so on. That is it.
If you want Conservation and restoration. I'll wash your poster, buffer and so on + I will restore your posters missing pieces, roughed up borders and what else is needed?
Best,
dario.
Yeaah Charlie, sorry! It is not for me to comment on other restorers work/videos. If you guys have questions with what you see, you would have to ask Chris.
The only restorer I worry about is me. Make sure I don't take on to much work, Keep my sanity in check ( I get some extremely difficult stuff to work on ) Trying some new approach to backings and resto and so on.
I mentioned how I feel about Conservation and restoration I think they are two different terms that certainly go hand in hand to fix a poster up, but could also be used individually.
Conservation always comes before restoration. Doh.gif One have to clean and scrub and buffer the poster first. Then, when it is dry on the rack we can do restoration. thumbsup.gif
I love my web site. I personally don't think anything is confusing and I am not going to change anything or second guess my friend and partners work.
Dave's done an amazing job.
Best,
dario.
Yeaah Charlie, sorry! It is not for me to comment on other restorers work/videos. If you guys have questions with what you see, you would have to ask Chris.
The only restorer I worry about is me. Make sure I don't take on to much work, Keep my sanity in check ( I get some extremely difficult stuff to work on ) Trying some new approach to backings and resto and so on.
I mentioned how I feel about Conservation and restoration I think they are two different terms that certainly go hand in hand to fix a poster up, but could also be used individually.
Conservation always comes before restoration. Doh.gif One have to clean and scrub and buffer the poster first. Then, when it is dry on the rack we can do restoration. thumbsup.gif
I love my web site. I personally don't think anything is confusing and I am not going to change anything or second guess my friend and partners work.
Dave's done an amazing job.
Best,
dario.
I will also jump in and say that having multiple sets and water color blocks also help out when the Faber-Castell's don't match up...
We have a bunch of pencils bought individually from this set:
(http://clearlydelightful.typepad.com/.a/6a00e5512d253a88330120a53cbaed970c-500wi)
We have this set:
(http://www.artstuff.net/assets/images/der9632883.jpg)
I've got some Caran D'Ache Artists colours water soluble pencils coming, I just want to do some minor touch up on some of my posters, Are they ok for my needs or should I invest in Faber-Castell ? And why Faber ? Better range of shades ?
I'm also wondering if I should bother touching up the fold lines as I don't intend on having any of them Linen backed.
And why Faber ? Better range of shades ?
I'm also wondering if I should bother touching up the fold lines as I don't intend on having any of them Linen backed.
If the restorer was going to touch up the fold lines anyway, why would the colors need to be fully removed if it was backed? If you were trying to get it back to the original state with no touch up, then I could understand. But if it was simply going to be put on linen and touched up, I don't see why it's a problem if they don't come out completely -- as long as the restorer was made aware ahead of time that they were water-soluble archival pigments.
I'm not trying to nitpick... I'm genuinely curious as I've been toying with the idea of touching up fold lines on some of my unbacked posters as well. Take this Aussie Halloween 1-sheet for example:
(http://i1048.photobucket.com/albums/s369/drharrycaul/Halloween/Halloween-Aussie_zpsfe73cf84.jpg)
The paper is so glossy for this poster that the ink is broken badly along the folds on every copy I've come across. And mine is actually one of the nicest un-backed examples I've ever seen. I'd hate to "restore" (i.e. linen back) it unnecessarily, but I've been thinking about flattening it (as we've discussed -- raising RH, sandwich between hollytex and blotting paper, press flat) and then touching up the folds. None of that would be damaging to the long-term integrity of the poster, correct? And if someone wanted to, it could always be linen-backed and re-touched up or (as you said requiring more effort) the water colors could be removed completely for a "European" style backing.
I guess I'm mainly wondering what the downsides are of touching up the folds on non-backed posters?
the water colors could be removed completely for a "European" style backing.
Also Charlie what do you recommend to buff the colors ?
Cotton puffs/balls...Nice thanks Charlie, I take it that cue tips will also work then.
Nice thanks Charlie, I take it that cue tips will also work then.
Just out of interest Charlie do you ever wet your pencils before application and just use them dry ?
I just did my first touch up Ink breaks on an all black glossy poster. I found I had to press surprisingly hard on the poster to get the black down in the breaks. Would softening the tip with water help with that? One small tip I can offer is buffing with bestine. The bestine lifted the extra black pencil off anything glossy and it also softened the black helping it get down into the breaks more thoroughly. And as was mentioned in another thread, I successfully used bestine soaked cotton balls to lift fingerprints off the glossy surface.
I just did my first touch up Ink breaks on an all black glossy poster. I found I had to press surprisingly hard on the poster to get the black down in the breaks. Would softening the tip with water help with that? One small tip I can offer is buffing with bestine. The bestine lifted the extra black pencil off anything glossy and it also softened the black helping it get down into the breaks more thoroughly. And as was mentioned in another thread, I successfully used bestine soaked cotton balls to lift fingerprints off the glossy surface.
Yeah wet it it's the only way for the darker colors...
thumbup
You can also experiment with gum arabic if you are brave...
Here is where I played with the colors on a shiny poster: http://www.allposterforum.com/index.php/topic,4053.msg71695.html#msg71695
Charlie have you quit your day job yet?
Nice job, Charlie.
You accepting the big stuff officially then? :)
Charlie its been on my living room floor since I got it .
We love it!
You are a bad man.
I would like to attempt to change what we call linenbacking to a three word phrase "Conservation, Support, and Restoration" or CSR for short..
.
.
.
.
Thoughts?
For a great start, with a big impact, maybe try asking the forum mods to replace every occurrence of linenbacking to:
linenbacking --> Charlie dislikes "linenbacking" preferring "Conservation, Support, and Restoration"
French Grande --> Thierry hates "Thierry hates "French Grande""
For a great start, with a big impact, maybe try asking the forum mods to replace every occurrence of linenbacking to:
linenbacking --> Charlie dislikes "linenbacking" preferring "Conservation, Support, and Restoration"
French Grande --> Thierry hates "Thierry hates "French Grande""
Read through the entire thread over the past couple of days. Incredible stuff, Charlie.
I don't have the space or time to do any linen backing myself, but I will have to at some point. Building all those tables and frames is right up my alley.
How does the conservation part of the process work exactly? You mention washing, de-acidifying and so on. I'm just trying to imagine a recipe like...
1. Place poster on sheet of mylar (or do you sandwich between two sheets?) and soak in water (de-ionized, right?)
2. Then you let it dry?
3. Place the poster in de-acidifying solution (is this the calcium hydroxide?)
4. Repeat steps 1 and 2
Is it something like that? Apologies for all the questions, the specificity of the process really interests me.
That's awesome, I linen back some posters myself but only 16x24 french or belgian posters at this time as I'm livin in a small appartment but I will soon change my address and will try to do better. This topic is awesome, I'm just arriving on the forum and I'm so glad to discover it. I hope my english's quite good :) Thanks for this topic !
welcome1 Zoongrew... good to see you here.
And enjoy APF!!
Jeff
That's awesome, I linen back some posters myself but only 16x24 french or belgian posters at this time as I'm livin in a small appartment but I will soon change my address and will try to do better. This topic is awesome, I'm just arriving on the forum and I'm so glad to discover it. I hope my english's quite good :) Thanks for this topic !
If you spill some coffee on your poster then feel free to start a thread called
Removing coffee stain from poster
As we don't have one of those yet. We seem to have every other stain
I'm sure many of us here have a poster with coffee stain on it but we do think it's dry blood that the displayer lost long time ago while he was hardly working to offer some beauty before watching the movie on theater... actually it's only coffee...
Great to hear when people find this thread. Welcome!
I still love providing my expert amateur opinion if anyone ever feel like dropping a question.
Charlie
And it's cool to see your thread still inspiring more folks to try, like new member Piercarlo states in his post (http://www.allposterforum.com/index.php/topic,14523.msg245051.html#new). It's why I much prefer forums to Facebook...